Laundry can be frustrating, even for a laundry enthusiast. It’s time-consuming, unceasing and there is so very much that can go wrong. For many of us, it’s one of those chores we learned to do from our parents, a dormmate, a significant other or whoever else, and then we stop asking questions. But questions are great! Because knowledge is power and can make doing laundry easier and more effective. This guide aims to help you understand your machines, how fabric types behave and the methods for treating common problems like stains, dinginess and odor — all with the important caveat that laundry is a personal endeavor. We’ve also added a section on washing your face mask, which has become an essential step of staying safe and comfortable. If you have favorite methods or products, or just feel better treating your washables to a proverbial boiling, by all means, march on. The thing about your laundry is that it’s yours.  

The Machinery

Washers and dryers — and how they work — can vary a lot, but knowing a few general rules can help you put them to best use.

Mastering the Settings

There are three functions — cycle length, cycle speed and water temperature — that can help you better understand washer settings and the effect they have on your launderables. Note, though, that on some machines these functions are separate of one another, allowing for greater control and customization of your wash, while in other machines cycle length, speed and water temperature settings are linked. The cycle length (sometimes just called “timer”) is how long the machine will clean your clothes. Use shorter cycles for less soiled and delicate clothing, and longer cycles for heavily soiled and bulky items. Always opt for the shortest possible cycle to get the job done; the less time garments spend being spun around in the wash, the longer they’ll last. The cycle speed refers to the speed and force at which clothes are agitated in the wash and spin cycles. Cycle speeds are sometimes expressed using terms like “regular,” “permanent press” or “delicate.” Those roughly translate to:  “fast/fast,” “fast/slow,” or “slow/slow.”A regular cycle in which both the wash cycle, when water and detergent are introduced into the drum, and the spin cycle, which extrudes water from the clothes post-rinsing, are fast. This is the right choice for bulky items.Permanent press is a fast/slow cycle, meaning that the wash cycle is fast and the spin cycle is slow, making it a good choice for fabrics that are prone to wrinkling, as the slower spin cycle reduces wrinkles. This is the right choice for the majority of your laundry.The delicate cycle is a slow/slow cycle, and the one that should be used for fine or delicate fabrics, or items with embellishments.Then there’s water temperature. When it comes to selecting the right water temperature for a load of laundry, keep these three things in mind:
  1. Because of advances in detergent formulation and washing machine design, virtually all laundry can now be washed using cold water. Cold water offers two benefits: It conserves energy, which can save you money, and it is less taxing on textiles, so it can extend the lifespan of everything from your favorite jeans to those expensive sheets you splurged on.
  2. It can still be helpful to know the outmoded rules of laundry water temperature selection: Cold water for darks, hot water for whites and heavily soiled items, like diapers. Hot water will have a fading effect over time, which is why cold water was historically recommended for darks and bright colors. (Older detergent formulas didn’t dissolve as well in cold water, which was why hot water was suggested for white and light-colored laundry.) Hot water also can offer extra cleaning power, and therefore was considered ideal for especially dirty laundry, including items like pillowcases that have been slept on by a sick person.
  3. When in doubt, use cold water.
But maybe you’ve been using hot water on your whites for as long as you’ve done laundry, and old habits die hard. Or perhaps you’re still worried about germs and bacteria surviving in the cold? By all means, continue to use hot water!  If washing towels in hot water makes you feel better even though they’ll come out just as clean even using cold water, go for it. (For the record, the heat from the dryer will take care of the germs.) That’s exactly what I do, despite knowing it’s just a psychological comfort rather than a fact-based decision. Laundry is personal, and we needn’t all make the same choices or have the same feelings.

Mastering the Dryer Settings

You’re probably guilty of over-drying your laundry. This can result in fading, shrinking, fraying or worse. But if you can break that habit, your clothing will thank you by lasting longer. But don’t internalize that dryer guilt: The problem with over-drying rests with the way dryer settings are labeled, rather than with your laundry skills. So go on and blame the machine. Then  review this breakdown of what the most common dryer settings actually mean so you can make better and more informed dryer choices, setting labels be damned. Regular: The highest heat setting, best used only for heavy items like jeans, sweatshirts and towels. “Regular” is a terrible term for this setting, as it really shouldn’t be used on the regular. Permanent press: The medium-heat setting, with a cool-down period at the end designed to reduce wrinkling. This is the one you want for most of your clothes and for your sheets. Delicate: The low-heat setting, which is sometimes obviously labeled “low-heat dry.” Use it for items containing Spandex or other forms of elastic, as well as for delicate cottons and shrink-prone materials like wools and linen. Low-heat drying is also great for garments that tend to retain smells even after washing, like yoga pants or sweat-wicking shirts. Tumble dry: The no-heat setting, which is sometimes called “no heat” or “air dry.” It can be used in place of the delicate setting for fine textiles or items that are prone to shrinking, or for clothing with embellishments that may melt or warp due to exposure to heat. Air and line drying: A great choice for deodorizing and brightening whites, keeping gym clothes odor-free, making clothes last longer, and cutting back on energy usage and cost.

Keeping Your Machines Running

They do a lot of the heavy lifting — make sure you are taking care of them, too.

Cleaning a Washing Machine

Cleaning a washer depends on how, and how often, the machine is used; a single professional woman who does one load of wash a week won’t need to clean her machine as often as the dad who is cloth diapering his offspring. The process of cleaning a washer is fairly straightforward: Run an empty load using hot water and a cleaning agent in place of detergent to flush the machine. A toothbrush can also be helpful for removing product buildup from dispenser compartments. Commercial washing machine cleaners, from brands like Tide and Carbona, exist, but a specialty product isn’t required for the job — white vinegar is an excellent choice, as is baking soda. If you have a front-loading machine, after a cleaning cycle, wipe the gasket to avoid product buildup and the development of mildew. Speaking of the gasket! If you have a high efficiency (HE) washer, the development of a mildew-y odor is likely. To keep it at bay, leave the door ajar when the machine is not in use, so that air can circulate and help to dry the machine out. When odors do develop, use a rag and white vinegar (wring it out so that it’s damp but not dripping) to wipe the gasket clean of lingering moisture, detergent residue, and the mildew that develops from the combination of the two. If you are an especially diligent person, go ahead and add a weekly or monthly wiping of the gasket to your laundry routine to keep the mildew at bay. Tip: While bleach can be used to eliminate mildew in a gasket or clean a washer, it’s not ideal because residue can damage clothes or irritate sensitive skin. If running an empty load offends your thrifty or environmental sensibilities, go ahead and use the cleaning cycle to wash items like shower curtain liners or rags.

Dryer Safety

Dryer fires affect 2,900 homes a year according to the U.S. Fire Administration. You should be diligent about maintaining your dryer to prevent a disaster from happening. You should also follow these rules for using your dryer:
  • Clean the lint filter after every use.
  • The exhaust vent should be cleaned at least once a year.
  • Never overload a dryer.
  • Don’t leave a dryer running while you’re sleeping or out of the house.

When and How to Hand-Wash

Sometimes a machine is not the best choice.
Hand-laundering has a bad reputation, which is a shame, because it really is a straightforward endeavor and a great skill to have. Whether you choose to hand-wash delicate garments like bras or cashmere sweaters as a regular part of your laundering routine, or you tuck the skill in your back pocket for use when traveling, here are the basic steps.
  1. Set-up You don’t need much by way of supplies to hand-wash a garment: Laundry detergent, a clean towel and a space large enough to fully submerge the garment in water — such as the kitchen or utility sink, the bathtub, or a washing bucket — are all that are required.Make sure, however, that the place where you’ll be doing the washing is clean (a quick wipe-down with all purpose cleaner will do the trick); you won’t want to be hand-laundering your bras in the kitchen sink alongside remnants of last night’s dinner! Fill the sink (or tub, or bucket) with water, leaving enough headspace for both the garment and your hands to get in there and move things around. Then add a small amount of detergent — small being the operative word. A little detergent goes a long way, especially when it comes to hand-laundering; aim for a teaspoon to a tablespoon of detergent, depending on how large the load of hand-wash is.
  2. Introduce the garment and mimic a washing machine Place the garment into the detergent solution and, using your hands, submerge it fully. Then, move it about so that the detergent can penetrate the fibers. Think of how a washing machine operates using a combination of water, detergent and agitation — that’s what you’ll want to mimic in a hand-washing situation.Once the garment is submerged, allow it to soak in the solution. The amount of soaking time depends very much on what you’re washing, which is also true of the water temperature. Silks and cashmere should only be exposed to cool water for a short period of time, while sturdier fabrics like cottons can endure a longer soaking water. (See ‘The Ins and Outs of Fabric Care” for more on water temperature and specific fabrics.)
  3. Rinsing When it comes time to rinse, you’ll be thankful for your judiciousness with detergent during set-up — if you overused detergent, you’ll be rinsing for ages. Start by draining the detergent solution and wiping the sink free of sudsy residue, then refill the sink with clean water, agitate the garments to release soap, drain and repeat until the items no longer release detergent. You can also rinse sturdier fibers under running water, though delicate items like hosiery or fine scarves shouldn’t be placed directly under a running tap.
  4. Drying Once the sink has been drained for the final time, press down on the garment while still in the sink to extrude water; do not wring the fibers, which can cause stretching or breaks. Then, lay the garment on a clean, dry towel and roll it up as if you were making a terry cloth bûche de noel. The combination of pressing out water and rolling the item in a dry towel will leave the garment only damp, rather than dripping wet, leaving it ready to be hung or laid flat to air dry.
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